For September we have selected a rare Kabusecha (かぶせ茶), processed as Tamaryokucha (玉緑茶), born from isolated islands where the air and water are very pure.

Gotō Islands. Photo by courtesy of the tea producer: 有限会社グリーンティ五島

Gotō, an island terroir

About a hundred kilometers (62 miles) west of Nagasaki, the Gotō Islands (五島) (literally "the five islands") are open to the ocean winds. On the main island, Fukuejima (福江島), isolation limits external contamination. The water and air are exceptionally pure, and former agricultural lands have been converted to organic tea plantations.

Here, producers favor sustainable practices that respect the soil and microbial life. Their objective is clear: to develop organic agriculture on Gotō and pass it on to future generations.

Photo by courtesy of the tea producer: 有限会社グリーンティ五島

Kabusecha

Our September tea is a kabusecha, shaded for about three weeks before harvest. The shade reduces photosynthesis, enhances umami, and softens astringency. This kabusecha is made from two cultivars: 50% Saemidori (renowned for its sweetness and deep color) and 50% Yabukita (more traditional) to achieve a balanced cup.

The processing follows the Tamaryokucha (玉緑茶) method, also called Guricha (グリ茶). Instead of rolling the leaves into needles as with sencha, they are dried in a rotating drum that gives them a rounded shape. The long steam cooking and controlled drying soften the leaf, limit astringency, and bring sweetness to the forefront. The result is a deep green liquor, clean and soothing, very pleasant for the September transition.

Gotō Islands. Photo by courtesy of the tea producer: 有限会社グリーンティ五島

Preparation

Hot brewing

• Leaves: 6 g (1 tbsp)
• Water: 160 ml (5.5 fl oz)
• Temperature: 70°C (160°F)
• Duration: 2 minutes

Cold brewing

• Dosage: 8 to 10 g per liter of cold water (0.3 oz per quart)
• Duration: 3 to 4h in the refrigerator